Swayambhunath Stupa (Monkey Temple)

Just west of Kathmandu is the Swayambhunath Stupa, one of the oldest shrines revered by both Hindus and Buddhists and approximately 1,500 years old. It has undergone 15 major renovations. There are two entrances: the west entrance consists of 365 steps, which lead directly to the main platform. The view of the city is spectacular from the summit and there are some interesting antique and jewelry shops.


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Pashupatinath Temple - Nepal

The Pashupatinath Temple is is an interesting complex, a site which includes the holy shrine of Shiva and a crematoria by the Bagmati River.

After I paid to get in, I was approached by a young man who immediately took me in tow and led me down to the burning ghats by the river. However, I told him I wasn't interested in a tour, that I would rather wander around by myself. I read about a woman's visit to Nepal and she gave a guide $20 for leading her tour. That's half a month's salary in Nepal.

Having visited Varanasi in India, the burning ghats weren't shocking for me, but some people are not prepared to see bodies being prepped for burning. The bodies were all medium to well-done and, as in Varanasi, what remained after the big cook was tossed into the river. A few miners were digging through the river bed looking for gold.

You aren't supposed to take pictures of the religious ceremonies for the dead, but I did sneak in a few. There are also local men dressed up as siddhus who charge you for taking their picture, but they're not siddhus. You will see the ubiquitous cow wandering around at will on steps and walkways and throughout the temple complex.

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Boudhanath Stupa - Kathmandu

The Boudhanath Stupa is one of the holiest Buddhist sites in Nepal and don't leave without seeing it, but go early, wear a hat and loads of sunscreen because it gets hot very quickly. My hotel hired a driver for me for the day but later I realized that I paid too much. Negotiate with a taxi driver for a ride of your own, which should cost maximum $20/American for the day. You could wander around the complex for hours drinking coffee, eating, or browsing through all the souvenir shops. ____________________________________________________________________________________ ____________________________________________________________________

Kathmandu Garden of Dreams

On my first day wandering around Kathmandu I came across the Garden of Dreams historical park and restaurant. I was surprised when I passed through the front gate because it was such an oasis of quiet in the middle of the chaos that is the Thamel district. They have a great outdoor salad bar. _____________________________________________________________________________________ _________________________________________________________________________________

Travelling in Nepal

I lived in a small town in British Columbia for 15 years and though it was beautiful, I didn't shed a tear when I left for good, but after being in Nepal for only 15 days my eyes welled up when I boarded my flight back to Oman. Nepal and its people will do that to you. It's a breath-taking country.

There is no need to make expensive tour plans before you leave home.  Reserve your hotel in Kathmandu and then book a tour once you're there because there are many tours to choose from.  I was traveling from Oman to Nepal and the travel agency here in Oman was going to charge me $2,000 for one week in Nepal.  I thought it was a bit pricy so I decided to arrange things once I got to Kathmandu.  I'm so glad I did because I took a 3-day tour to Chitwan for $175/American (including transportation, hotel, meals and park tours) when I booked from my hotel in Kathmandu.  Hotels in Kathmandu arrange the tour for you and it's waaaaaay the hell cheaper than paying for it from home.  Make sure to bargain though, because there are many tours available!  

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Remember to bring $25 American for your visa and one passport-sized photo or you will be sorry when you try to get through customs at the Kathmandu airport.

I felt like I was in a Russian bread line the queue was so long. And slow! I forgot my photo and I didn't have any spare change for a snapshot at the photo kiosk, so I had to dash out on the street (yes, they let me go through customs for that) and find an ATM. The first one was out of order, so I ran to another which I didn't know how to operate. Luckily, I happened to meet a time-worn American who'd been living in Kathmandu for years who was going to get money, but when we got back to the ATM dude was withdrawing so much money I yelled, 'Hey, save some for me. I've still got to go through customs!'

His Nepali friend showed me how to operate the ATM and I withdrew ample to get everything done at customs. Standing behind me as I left the ATM cubbyhole was a young American woman who told me she'd been in the airport for a whole day. I pulled on the Nepali's sleeve as he was turning to go. 'Please help her get some money out of that thing,' and I ran off.

The line-up at customs had barely moved and standing there watching how slow they were I thought I would be there for a day, too. Three men, who were only stamping the passports of women with children, were sitting at a table off to one side, but they weren't busy.

I limped up, handed one of them my passport and sat down, rubbing my thigh and hoping that none of them had seen me tearing around the airport like a beheaded chicken a half hour earlier.
'Do you think you could stamp mine, please?'
'This is for women with children.' He looked at my passport, handed it back and shook his head. 'Get back in line.'
'Yes, I know,' I said, rubbing my leg, 'but I just broke my leg recently and then I had an operation, so I can't stand up for a long time. I can't wait that long. Would you mind stamping this?' I handed them my passport again.
They hummed and hawed then motioned for an old-timer at the custom desk to come over and collect my passport and get it done up. They told me to wait outside through customs.

I sat there on the bench rubbing my leg watching gleefully as they stamped my passport and then old dude came out and handed it to me. I was so glad to get out of there. It really pays to innovate.